Feature
By Bryan Simpkins, 6-22-25
Kayakers are always looking for an adventure. Don’t believe me? Look no further than any group on Facebook. They will travel body of water, whether a lake, a river, or the ocean. So It’s in that sense of adventure, and because I’ve solo circumnavigated every barrier island north and south of Amelia Island, that the St. Mary’s River came into view.
Now I have kayaked various parts of the St. Marys River, with my kayak buddy, before but I never dreamt of doing the whole thing.
The St. Marys River is a blackwater river which runs 130 miles from its origin in the Okefenokee Swamp to its mouth between Cumberland Island, Georgia and Amelia Island Florida.
I currently have no way to paddle the whole length in one try so I decided to do it in sections.
I have joked around about launching from the bridge between the Florida/ Georgia State line before. My friend Mark Grimes wanted to take part of a day and explore for a launching point somewhere around I-95. (Yeap, the interstate). So that’s what we did. We found out it’s currently under maintenance and nothing is accessible around the bridge….. but we did find a spot just off of Lanier Avenue, from an old lot on the riverbank.
I have been following a guy named Peter Frank on facebook. He is paddling from Lake Michigan, down to Florida and across, then up the Mississippi and back home. (Editor’s note: that 5000 mile route is known as “The Loop” to boaters)
The reason i mentioned this is because he has experienced the relentless South/Southeast winds that dominate this season and has been seriously delayed. These are the same winds that have kept me from doing anything of distance and have kept me in local backwater.
While the St. Marys River is wide and affected by the tides, it is mostly inland and therefore the winds should be partially blocked?
On Saturday we found the launch point. On Monday everything lined up! Memorial Day… I am off. The tides… High at 9:00 am. That means outgoing till 3:00pm. Temperature and humidity and precipitation were all favorable. I am going!
The 13’6” Ocean kayak is usually already packed with 90% of what i will need. I just have to grab my scupper plugs, sunblock, food and drink and… oh yeah, how will I get there?
I have to leave my Jeep and trailer at the arrival point. I also can’t leave a vehicle on the property I am launching from. Mark had plans, so I reached out to another friend who has assisted me on some if my Barrier Island solo circumnavigations… and he said Yes!
I met Kent Fidler at DD Bartyles launching ramp at 7:00am. DD Bartyles is the northernmost boat ramp on Amelia Island. We parked the Jeep, put my trailer on his truck, drove the 30 miles to Georgia and he dropped me and my load off just west of I-95. Thanks Sir!
I pushed off in glass (!), with an hour of incoming tide as well. How hard would the current be and what are the tidal differentials this far back? Well, there is one way to find out.
I saw Kent, his truck and my trailer, heading back into Florida, from the water. I am committed now! I had guesstimated it should be about 20 miles. So, if i normally travel at 3 mph, it would take 7 hours max? But, the tide will switch and I know that means one heck of a current to ride out!
I’m nervous…. But thats good. It will keep me humble. Right away I thought the river looked like a giant whack-a-mole game with all the gator heads popping up then disappearing under the black water.
Traffic noise on the interstate faded away and eventually the giant neon gasoline sign did as well. It was a familiar landmark as the ribboning of the river had me going south, then north, then south…. then it was gone. Now, everything was new…. And quiet.
Then the bluffs appeared. Crandall appeared. Giants. Steep drop into the tea colored water. Tea colored water with toothy reptiles at the edge. For this reason I decided to stay in the kayak and not to tie off and climb the cliffs…. Besides, I’m only a couple miles in and need to be in that tidal switch.
As gator mating season approaches, it’s no wonder there appeared to be one on every point and peninsula. Its also noteworthy to mention that there was a lot of debris (mostly broken reeds) whirlpooling in the eddies, where I am trying to avoid the current.
Sun was hot. The glare was wicked. Only the wind chop on the surface, which has replaced the glassy water, saved me from a scorching reflection. Time to break out the sunglasses.
Staying hydrated and eating some mandarin oranges helped me break the monotony of paddling. I ran my kayak up into the grass so I could send a “I’m still good” text to those who are watching my progress.
Finally, the tide was slack. I could feel the weight of my kayak under each stroke. The darker grasses exploded into lime green as the shadows were overtaken by the rising sun. I was making 4 mph for the first 4 miles (not bad against the tide) but now the river was wider and I ran into the strengthening south east wind.
This sense of adventure doesn’t happen if you never try. As the unknown part of the river got behind me with every stroke of the blade, I approached a heavily masted horizon. Only one place on today’s journey should have masts and that is historical downtown St. Marys! And 10 minutes later, there she was.
The tide had changed and the crab pot buoys were being pulled in the direction I am traveling. Yes! The tide is with me and it is beckoning me, “Come, play.”
As I approached the area where we have started the “Cross the Line” event for the Veterans’ suicide awareness paddle, the last couple of years, I knew I had between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours of paddling left. Turning south from the north end of Big Tiger Island would expose me to all that the wind has.
Boat traffic was heavy that day. Fortunately everyone was deeper in the main channel. The tide drops so fast along this shore and, the mudflats and sandbars will leave everyone who ventures too close, high and dry for hours!
I reached one if those sandbars and had no choice but to get out and drag the kayak about 50 yards. It was either that or go out into the boat traffic AND the outgoing tide from Amelia island. Nope nope nope. Been there, done that before.
As I dragged the kayak in only inches of water I saw all kinds of marine life- crabs, rays, fish, turtles, dolphins and a shark. Only the stingrays worried me.
Back in the kayak and along the shore of Little Tiger Island, I contemplated the crossing of the Amelia River. Boats of every kind and all the rental equipment that downtown Fernandina has were on the water… and my arms were sore.
I grabbed hold of one of the dredge pipes that are floating in the river- stability while I time the crossing. Wait….wait…now….Go! Dig, dig, dig…
18.45 miles in just under 5 hours. A new sunburn and a sense of accomplishment. It wouldn’t be for a couple hours yet before someone challenges me with the idea of doing the whole St. Marys River, but all I could think about then is what would I eat for lunch!
My trusty 240cm fiberglass paddle has been with me on every adventure. There are chips missing and hastily done fiberglass repairs on it. Its been spray painted and it is worn. Other items that stay in the kayak are a sea anchor, a first aid kit, backup paddle, dry bag with clothes and towel, TP, lighter and compass, knife, rope and string, floatation device (other than my life jacket, water shoes and a floppy hat, gloves, lantern and red & green led lights. My cooler has fruit, jerky, nuts, water, gatorade and, making its first kayak appearance “V8 Energy drinks.”
Can I encourage you? Just go. Whether it’s hiking or on the water, there is something incredible that happens when you challenge yourself! It won’t happen in front of a TV or computer.
So much of what God knows we need we get in sunshine, sweat, water and seeing His Creation.
I hope to see you in the water!
Bryan Simpkins
all photos were taken by the author.
Editor’s notes: Mr. Simpkins is much too modest. Being a 30+ year paddler myself with quite a few trips under my belt as well, I could readily see that he is a very strong, thinking paddler. To complete such a trip with a short, slow plastic kayak is quite an accomplishment in itself. To do it utterly alone, without a support crew and co-paddlers is even more difficult. He carefully planned and executed this trip to arrive at all the right points at the right time, tide and currents for maximum performance and safety.
